Keto Means
Keto Means
Photo: Katerina Holmes
Pounding: There are three reasons to pound meat. One is to tenderize. The pounding breaks down connective tissues. It's not only used with pork, but also with other meats and cuts that might otherwise be a bit tough, such as beef round steak.
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Read More »Q. I wondered if I could get some input with a dish I'm trying to replicate. Did you ever try the tenderloin sandwich at the [now closed] Sportsman's Lounge? The tenderloins were pounded out (you could hear them pounding in the kitchen) and breaded. How would I go about this? I'm assuming you'd purchase pork tenderloins, but how did they pound them so thin? Also wondered about the breading. Any advice you could give me about preparation and frying would be appreciatedbecause my husband and high school son really miss the sandwiches! Lori A. I never had a tenderloin sandwich at Sportsman's Lounge, but did enjoy their traditional Springfield-style chilli. Here's some information about pounding and breading, and suggestions to hopefully get you close to the Sportsman's Lounge version — or at least one your family likes as much! Pounding: There are three reasons to pound meat. One is to tenderize. The pounding breaks down connective tissues. It's not only used with pork, but also with other meats and cuts that might otherwise be a bit tough, such as beef round steak. The second reason is uniform thickness. It's especially good to use with chicken breasts; otherwise the tapered end cooks more quickly than the thicker part. It's also necessary for stuffing chicken breasts. I love to butterfly a leg of lamb for the grill by removing the bone and opening the meat out, then pounding the bulkier parts so that the entire piece is roughly the same thickness. The point isn't making it thin — it ends up about 1 1/2"-2" thick, rather that it cooks evenly. The third reason is to make the meat thinner. It's best to put the meat between sheets of waxed or parchment paper or plastic wrap. The pounding is usually done with a meat mallet or heavy skillet. For years I used cast-iron skillets. Whenever I started thwacking away, children and pets would rush from the kitchen. Then one day I broke off the handle of my best skillet — one I'd inherited from my grandmother — and decided it was time to break down and buy the mallet (they're inexpensive). Though a skillet works fine, the mallet does do a better, more controlled job; it's quieter, too. Mine, like many, has one flat side; the other has half-diamond shaped teeth for tenderizing. Pound the meat with gentle to medium force; too much can pulverize it into mush. Also, a skillet hits the thickest part first, but if you're using a mallet, it's best to start in the middle and work outward. Even though they're called tenderloin sandwiches, the cut used for them is actually the loin. Pork tenderloins are slender strips of meat only 2-3" in diameter; it would be difficult to impossible to pound them into pieces large enough for typical "tenderloin" sandwiches. Buy center-cut boneless pork loin cut 1/2" thick, then pound to about 1/4". It can be pounded even more, but if it's too much thinner, the breading can overwhelm the meat. Breading: Breading isn't difficult, but can be a bit messy. Meat or vegetables are first dredged (dragged through and coated) with flour that's been seasoned with salt and pepper, shaking off any excess. When breading something that's already been seasoned or marinated, omit the salt and pepper. Then it's coated with beaten egg, allowing the excess to drip off. Depending on what I'm making, I sometimes add a little minced garlic or onion to the egg. Finally, the item is dredged in breadcrumbs or alternatives such as cracker crumbs, cornmeal or even ground nuts. Grated cheese or other seasonings can also be added. After the item is coated, press it lightly into the crumbs on each side so they adhere well. Many cookbooks recommend refrigerating breaded items in a single layer for about an hour before cooking, but I haven't found it makes much difference. Cookbooks also usually recommend using one hand to dredge the items in the dry ingredients and the other hand for the egg. This is undoubtedly good advice, but somehow I always end up with my fingertips turned into little breaded lollipops. Fortunately, the breading washes off easily. Some cookware shops and catalogues offer a set of three pans specifically for breading, but, aside from the silliness of having something used only occasionally by most home cooks, the pans are too small for large items such as pounded tenderloins. In my never-ending quest to reduce dishwashing, I put the seasoned flour and crumbs on separate pieces of parchment or waxed paper or paper towels, and put a large shallow pan or platter between them for the egg, which can be beaten with a fork right on the platter.
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Read More »Frying: Sportsman's Lounge probably deep-fried the tenderloins — they'd have had a large commercial deep-fryer going all the time. For home, I'd try pan-frying first, using your largest skillet with oil that's 1/4" to 1/2" deep. Whether you're pan-frying or deep-frying, the oil's temperature is crucial. Too hot, and the breading will burn before the pork is cooked; too cool, and it'll be greasy. (Austrians say that a properly cooked wiener schnitzel — almost certainly the antecedent of breaded pork tenderloins — should be so greaseless that you could sit on it for 10 seconds without getting a stain on your pants! For deep-frying, the oil needs to be 350°-375°; for pan-frying the oil should be very hot, but not smoking. Suggestions: Experiment with various types of breadcrumbs. Dry breadcrumbs will produce a texture different than fresh breadcrumbs. The breading on any restaurant tenderloins I've had was very fine; it's possible that cracker crumbs or a commercial breading product was used. I'd also recommend trying ethereally light panko breadcrumbs, which the Japanese use for tonkatsu, their adaptation of breaded fried pork loin. It probably wouldn't be the same as Sportsman's Lounge, but panko breadcrumbs are so light and crispy that they've become the breading standard for many chefs and serious home cooks — including me. They're available at many local groceries and at Little World Mart, 2936 S. MacArthur Blvd. Different oils/fats will affect taste as well; try different kinds to find one that most closely matches what you remember.
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